The Făgăraș Ridge 2/5 - Făgăraș Mountains

1. Curmătura Tătarului (1.780 m) - Chica Fedeleșului (1.820 m) - Șaua Apa Cumpănită (1.805 m) - Șaua Suru (2.110 m)

6 km / 2 hours / easy / red lane

I had a chance to get up early and around 6am I got out of the tent to catch the sunrise. I had no astampar and by the time Serban and Otilia were vertical we were on the summit of Chica Fedelesului in easy run (1820 m) and back. Here is also a view towards the peaks of Suru and Scara to which we'll start moving today. Serban caught some cool shots with a view towards SSV highlighting the Frunti, Cozia and Buila Vanturarita mountains.

After breakfast we get moving. We pass by the S de Tataru peak (1890), winterized, and we soon arrive in Cumpanita Water Saua (1805). South of the bend I saw off-road cars that had climbed up to the ridge. In the saddle springs on either side of the ridge road and a (former) refuge practically destroyed. We pass in turn the Valcului Sturii, then the imaginary barrier of the 2000 elevation, another air, and the Moasa Peak (2034) to the north, the Cocoriciu Mountain, then we pass through the north and the Gavanu Peak (2150).

We arrive in Saua Suru (2110) from where a path leads northwards down to Suru Hut, which I remember fondly from other times.

2. Suru Saddle (2.110 m) - Budislavului Saddle (2.159 m) - Avrig Saddle (2.172 m) - Avrig Lake (2.011 m)

5 km / 2 hours / easy / red lane

In our direction of travel, eastwards, rises Suru peak (2283), which the red-band trail passes to the south on a contour at elevation 2150, so without effort. Also in this area, there is another water source, visible from the path, Glasie's Sippot. And that's how, by going almost entirely on the law, we end up in Budislavu Saddle (2200). The next first climb is Budislavu (2350), but we don't reach the maximum point on it either. We go down a contour and leave the summit of Vartopu Rosu (2233) to the north (left) of the path.

After about 3 hours of walking we are in Portita Avrigului (2178) We had to descend in the Avrigului caldera because the Ciortea summit (2420), left on our right, is the westernmost major Fagarasan peak with slabs and the classic marked ridge route does not include the climbs that would have been necessary on Ciortea from Portita Avrigului. We will encounter enough exposed passages, let's not complain, we are just entering the higher part of the ridge.

From Portita Avrigului you're looking at a gem, Lake Avrig (2011). We descend steeply into the warmth that hosts it, a good place to camp for those who plan a camping in the area, there are springs. We have a good view of the contours of the path that, after the lake, climbs up the coast on a branch back to the ridge.

The path goes along the left bank of the lake, where some dogs guarding their herd crowded us. At the mouth of the lake we stopped for a snack (30 min) under canine supervision.

3. Avrig Lake (2.011 m) - West Gârbovei Saddle (2.149 m) - Scara Peak (2.306 m)

2 km / 1 hour / medium / red lane

Come on, further on, up the hill, up the hill, towards Saua Garbovei (2140). Here is a junction of roads: a branch to the N to Cab. Barcaciu, another to the SW towards Vârful Ciortea (from this side it is approachable). For us, the almost erased plaque in the sa indicates 6.5 hours to Vârful Negoiu. Really? It might be like yesterday when we did less, but what if not? We distract our concentration from the route times by raising our eyes to the high sky to admire more brave paragliders.

We go straight on until Saua Scarita (2143) from where another path forms and descends northwards on the red cross. The steepest climb of this first part follows.

4. Scara Peak (2.306 m) - Scării Saddle (2.152 m) - Șaua Șerbota Saddle (2.123 m) - Șerbota Peak (2.327 m)

3.5 km / 1 hour 45 min / medium / red lane

Photos on Scara Peak (2306), the last perspective is towards Serbota - Negoiu. Usually after climbing steeply you have a way down, which we will do below Puha Peak (2176), located to the left of the trail (there is also a mathematical ridge that goes over the summit).

We mark our presence in Saua Scale (2146), where there is also a refuge with a spring. Scara Refuge is in good condition and for the first day hiker it's much easier to tackle the morning of the Saratii Seam, which we will talk about... soon. From here we have a superb view Negoiu Hut.

Important! Here you have to fill up the canteens because up to Caltun Lake there is only rock! I ignored it, thinking that I could be a camel for a few hours and resist with only 1 liter of water! My mistake!

Let's go! We could say that from Scara Peak onwards we are in the high segment of the Fagaras ridge which for a very long distance will be over 2200 m altitude. This is what the landscape looks like towards the peaks of Negoiu, Lespezi and Caltun. Next we climb to the N of Vârful Mazgavu (Musceaua Scarii) (2250), but here too there is a variant over the summit, then we descend steeply in Saua Serbota (2123), possible camping spot. From now on we have the most demanding part of the second day ahead. A climb with a difference in level of over 200 meters takes us to a superb viewpoint, the Serbota Peak.

5. Șerbota Peak (2.327 m) - Sărății Ridge - Cleopatrei Saddle (2.430 m) - Negoiu Peak (2.535 m)

2 km / 2 - 3.5 hours / very hard / red lane

Serbota Peak (2330), picture with the flag on the summit. This Fagaras full ridge lap was for me also a testing stone, an endurance lap, yes, but that's not what I was worried about. It was my desire to overcome my fear of heights, of steepness. The structure of the ridge means that from here, from Serbota Peak to Negoiu, I can overcome this mental barrier. Next is Custura Saratii - the most difficult and exposed marked mountain trail in Romania! What do you think? I'm going on the seams, especially since I know there's a detour to the right, through Warming Aries?

The show must go on! Let's do it! Easy to say, but practice kills us! The path doesn't have many mysteries, it immediately narrows on an aerial branch that is snowy at the beginning (i.e. cliff on the left, cliff on the right), with a downward slope. I'm beginning not to like it! I mean I like it, but... Back? Better now than later! Or, in fact, I like it, but I'm scared! All right, forward! Serban realized he had to stay by my side.

I'm getting a little bit brave seeing how many tourists go through this exposed sector. Many come from other countries to check off the Seam of the Sahara, and I'm supposed to turn left? The truth is that more than half of the tourists we met on the ridge were foreigners. We kept passing some Czechs or Slovaks, who either went ahead or stayed behind us.

I asked Serban to (im) take pictures in the seam, because I will concentrate on the plugs, I don't need another stress with the pictures. After the aerial branch, The Saratii seam enter the first difficult passage, some of the 3 very difficult. Actually the 3 are placed at the beginning, at the end and in the middle! Many people find it more difficult to get unstuck. The seam descends in elevation until about halfway up, then embarks climbing again. There follow many, I haven't counted them, many passages where you have to faithfully apply the rule of 3 fixed holds on the cliff (two hands and one foot or two feet and one hand). In addition, some steps to do are big, or may seem to me due to the exaggerated emotions I had. Really? I know it's annoying that expression already, but how do I get down over the first awkward jump, even if secured with chains. I've ridden on a lot of chains in my life, but this really sucks! No, it's no use! I'd better go back. But why should only me go back when all the people, all the people go on! Come on, Dane, isn't Custura why you came here? The Slovaks took your face again. Fine, fine! Forward! When I saw that I had passed the first big double of chains, it gave me a bit of self-confidence. It's true that I was looking very carefully to choose my sockets without looking in the hau. And a little bit, a little step, a little chain, hopa - topa, I started to move forward and when I saw where and where I went down, I told myself clearly that from now on there was no doubt, just forward! I didn't start to parade like many brave like black goats, but "a little bit, a step, a chain, a chain, hopa - topa", here ... ... ... I proved it! Hard, with doubts at the beginning, with excitement then, even with some courage at a certain point I passed ... this way. VICTORY!

Very seriously speaking (writing), I started to progress very slowly. The fear had gone, I had emptied the water can, I was thirsty and ... my legs were getting more and more difficult.

I got in Cleopatra's Willow (2430). From here a trail descends to the left down the Negoiului Valley to the Negoiu hut, which was once long ago the best mountain adventure I ever had due to a storm that formed dozens of torrents. But that's another story! How cool! Cleopatra's needle and the Negoiului Valley Blow, blow! I was out of breath. The climb is sustained, and I was making more and more stops. And not for 5 seconds like before, I was really feeling exhausted, I was starting to lose my confidence again. Even though the summit was in front of me, I couldn't do it anymore! Heavy and killer 16 kg backpack, another time I really optimize its content. On the marker in the saddle was posted half an hour to Negoiu Peak.

That's how hard we climbed. I didn't even notice when we passed Negoiu Mic Peak (2475). Thanks to Serban for giving me water from his reserve and helping me with my backpack on the last meters. On the summit there were many resting hikers watching Dan's exhausted face. Dan who? Well, we're here! Thanks for waiting!

6. Negoiu Peak (2,535 m)

I'm on Negoiu Peak (2535 m), the second highest in Romania. And the highest of our entire tour! Did you know that until the interwar period Negoiu Peak was known as the highest peak in the Carpathians? There's an old marker on the summit. Many know it. And a flag. And on the summit there is also a metal box in which a diary of impressions is housed, which ... had been replaced on that very day of August 15.

Off Negoiu Peak it is a superb panorama in all directions and you can see the Vidraru reservoir. I stayed for 20 minutes on the summit, had another snack, came to my senses, really came to my senses.

7. Negoiu Peak (2.535 m) - Strunga Doamnei - Portița Călțunului (2.240 m) - Călțun Lake (2.150 m)

2 km / 1 - 1,5 hours / hard / red lane, except Strungii Doamnei where we have a yellow lane

From the top of the path first follow the ridge, slightly to the right, (S), to go around Peak Between Stripes (2476). It is true that before going around it, there is another famous path, the one through The devil's creek, which is officially closed and forbidden after falling rocks caused accidents. Thirty years ago I hiked Strunga Dracului and I remember with great pleasure the steep chimney that I climbed supported by cables. Perhaps the most difficult route, on a par with "La Lanturi" in Piatra Craiului, after Custura Saratii. My opinion! Vârful Dintre Strungi is bypassed in descent by the right and then suddenly changes direction to the left, surrounding it to enter in Strunga Doamnei, another beautiful chimney that descends towards the caldera. Strictly the official bypass through Strunga Doamnei is marked with yellow band, then back to red band. Evening is approaching and the shadow/light optical play is spectacular. Stone slabs make the landscape similar to the Retezat. We are in Portita Caltunului (Negoiului) (2200). We've descended a lot from Negoiu. We are N of Caltun Peak (2505), which is very rugged and hard to climb from Negoiu, and takes you pretty much out of the "full ridge" route. In the lower caldera there is another wonderful blue eye, Caltun Lake, where we aim to stay overnight in our tent, but we still have one more glacial step to descend. Near the lake there is two refuges, a newer one, which looks really quite interesting, slightly sci-fi. The new refuge is one step above the lake, on the ridge trail that starts to climb towards Laitel (Balea).

Caltun Lake (2150) is a camping site chosen by many hikers. Above the lake, on the coast of Mount Lespezi, another 25-sutar, is a springThe signs on the stone with a wavy sign, as well as textual signs lead you to the spring.