Altstadt Wetzlar, Germany

Wetzlar's fairytale cottages

Where is it?

Wetzlar is a city in Hesse, Germany. It has a population of about 53,000 inhabitants. It has an area of 76 kmp and is situated at 156 mdm. During the Holy Roman Empire the so-called Reichskammergericht (Imperial Court of Justice) functioned in Wetzlar.

History of Wetzlar

City beginnings Wetzlar dates back to the 8th century, although the first documentary attestation appears only in 1141. In 897, Bishop Rudolf of Würzburg built the Salvatorkirche (Church of the Savior) on the site of today's cathedral, which later became the Marienstift (monastery).

The first flowering of the area is due to Frankfurt - Koeln - Antwerpen trade route (Antwerp), which had in Wetzlar a bridge crossing the river Lahn. Alte Bruecke (Old Bridge) is today the main pedestrian access to Domplatz. The traders and craftsmen and in 1180 Wetzlar becomes Reichsstadt (imperial city), a rank that offered privileges. It flourished, reaching the peak of this early period of development in the 13th century. Guilds of craftsmen were organized in several areas of the city. The city had a wall (today it can be seen only for short distances), 5 gates and 9 towers, the latter being guarded by a guild. All but one of the old city gates were destroyed. The decline of the city followed, which was caused by conflicts with neighboring fortresses. The work on the cathedral extension (Dom) came to a halt and one of the two towers of the cathedral never rose again.

Wetzlar's second flourishing period began in 1690 when the highest German court was brought here, Reichskammergericht. With this came an influx of nobles who brought with them the development of new crafts. Their imprint can be found everywhere today through the presence over the years of old houses with exceptional architecturereal palaces to see by the hundreds, which are the Altstadt, the Old Center of Wetzlar. Many of them have stories worth listening to in a guided tour 90 minutes, who can explain the meaning of the insignia, symbols and decorative elements. Wooden houses are maintained and looks impeccable.

Another decline of the city followed in the 19th century, when Wetzlar lost its Reichsstadt status. The economic revolution of Wetzlar, and at the same time the city's third period of prosperity, is due to optics industry, for which it is today world-renowned thanks to the brand Leica.

Route map

(click on objectives for extended version)

1. Tourist Info Center

I write it with conviction: a visit to the city of Wetzlar in the German federal state of Hessen should start at Tourist Info Center. It can be found in Domplatz (Cathedral Square) and is properly signposted. You can't miss it easily with the abundance of signposts in the city or simply head to the Dom which dominates the area, the center being in Domplatz, Cathedral Square. The Tourist Info Center in Wetzlar is the most knowledgeable and informative for tourists that I have seen. From a brochure for Neubuerger (new citizens) to a multitude of brochures showing sights to visit, organized tours, maps, written books, souvenirs etc.

Old house in the Altstadt, which today houses the Tourist Information Center

2. Domplatz - Cathedral Square

The guided tour starts from Domplatz fountain. I had the great chance to benefit from a personal guide as I was the only one present at the tourist meeting point at the hour.

A few other remarkable buildings stand out on Domplatz. At no. 8 was a sort of "Market Cantar", a shopping center the Germans call it. Here all the goods that were to be displayed for sale had to be weighed and taxed. Later the building housed the Town Hall. Today it houses the Tourist Information Center. At no. 3 was the famous Hauptwache (Main Guard), later the equivalent of today's Proximity Police.

Each of these houses, besides this very brief history that I present to you selectively, stands out by their architecture, enriched with signs and decorative and distinctive elements used 8 centuries ago. You can identify them in some of the pictures I attach.

Domplatz Fountain

Fischmarkt's fairytale buildings

Hauptwache

pedestrian walkways with stairs

3. The Dome - Cathedral

The visit began with the presentation of the Cathedral and the history of the city, which go as you have read hand in hand. About Wetzlar Dome read a detailed article.

 

Domul

Wetzlar Dome

Wetzlar Cathedral

4. Fischmarkt - Fish Market

At the bottom left end of the Domplatz is the Fischmarkt. This was the fish market. The alley that starts from this place has several historic houses. The most famous restaurant of the 18th century - Zum Goldenen Loewen (The Golden Lion) - is at no. 9, at no. 10 the house of the noble family of Emerich jurists. The Rathaus (Town Hall) was built in the 14th century at No. 13, and then the Reichskammergericht (Reichskammergericht) where Goethe began the love story of his youth.

At no. 17 was the tavern "Zum Kronprinzen" (The Crown Prince), where Goethe often dined.

fountain

Fischmarkt's fairytale buildings

5. Lottehaus - Lotte House

We continue in Goethe's footsteps. In the Altstadt many streets are named after craftsmen's guilds. On one such street, Schmiedgasse, which branches off from the upper left end (looking from the hill down into the valley) of Domplatz we then started towards Lottehaus on Lottestrasse for a few hundred meters up the easy uphill climb. At the same address is the Stadtmuseum (city museum), Industriemuseum (of industry) and Viseum.

About Lottehaus in Wetzlar can read a detailed article.

Scene painted on the Lottehaus fence with Goethe and Lotte

Lottehaus

Stadtmuseum in the Lottehaus courtyard

6. Plätze, Stadtmauer and Säuturm - The Squares, the City Wall and the Slave Tower

There are many different routes to choose from, all along the routes are spectacular houses with their own stories. They meet at a few crossroads, Plaetze or Maerkte (squares), which each have a fountain. The water comes from a network of underground canals, thus ensuring both the water supply and the source for extinguishing fires, which in those times could have devastating consequences. Each house had a fire bucket. Interestingly, according to the Roman model, the richer population lived in the hill (where it was cleaner), the poorer in the valley (where they collected the waste thrown by the citizens in the absence of a sewer. From story to story we get to see a piece of the Stadtmauer (city wall) and opposite it the only tower left standing - Saeuturm (sow tower), more recently so called because after the disappearance of the guilds, pigs were slaughtered here. The street here is called Turmstrasse.

We passed by the Eisenmarkt (iron market), Kornmarkt (grain market) and Schillerplatz, where the Jerusalem Museum is also located at no. 5.

 

fountain in Altstadt

Market and houses in Altstadt Wetzlar

8 centuries old houses

Other houses in Altstadt

The most beautiful house is the one in Eisenmarkt

The Altstadt story continues

7. Others from around Wetzlar

That's the end of the guided tour, but if you use the information brochures you can extend it as you wish. Wetzlar has a route around the fortress, a green route, a walking route along the banks of the river Lahn, through parks and gardens.

Off the top of my head I liked to stray down the steeply stepped narrow lanes between the beautiful houses. I crossed both the old bridge and another parallel metal bridge - the Arno-Riedl-Bruecke - which only exists in summer and overlooks a park. In winter it is dismantled and put back in place in spring.

River Lahn, another self-sufficient objective, is populated with many birds, ducks and swans being dominant in numbers, but you will also see another species of something that has come with a boldness for food. The birds come out on the bank and also enter the alleyways of the park near the shore. Water sports like canoeing are practiced on the river.

Summer theater in Rosengaertchen

in the park is the "labyrinth"

Old mill

artificial waterfall on the Lahn river

the old stone bridge in Wetzlar

High House in Wetzlar

The old bridge, still pedestrian

Arno-Riedl-Bruecke, the seasonal bridge over the river Lahn

ducks

swans and ducks

swans on the lake

Recommendation for Wetzlar

If you reach Wetzlar, visit AltstadtThere you will also find many terraces where you can dine in a pleasant atmosphere or gardens on the banks of the Lahn where you can drink beer and eat Wurst.

All the best!

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