The Retezat–Godeanu–Cernei Ridge – Day 7/7 – The Cernei Mountains

Ciumerna Pass (1,481 m) – Arjana Peak (1,511 m) – Zăscol Peak (1,496 m) – Prislop Pass (1,270 m) – junction (point 17) – Prisăcina junction (point 18) – Dobraia – Dumbrava Motel (DN67C) (250 m)

Access

Our expedition to hike the ridge of the Retezat–Godeanu–Cernei Mountains has reached its final leg. It was a day when we changed our original route and did not hike the entire ridge to its end—namely, to the Băile Herculane Train Station— and we decided that after conquering the Arjana and Zăscol peaks, we would descend through the isolated hamlets of the Cernei Mountains toward the Dumbrava Motel, located just above the Băile Herculane resort. Basically, we took one of the descents from the Prislop Saddle. We decided on this change because I was hesitant to descend the steep Zăscol slope toward Biliana, having learned that it required climbing down without a rope and that the difficult sections weren’t equipped with chains, and for me, that wouldn’t have been at all to my liking, with my large, heavy backpack, especially since there were the aforementioned alternatives for leaving the ridge.

About the hike on Day 7/7

The original route, along the ridge, was 28 km long. Our alternate route was only 21 km. Fatigue, the heavy backpack, but especially the fear of descending Zăscolul Arjanei on all fours and my own fear of steep slopes led us to change our planned route. We enjoyed the picturesque, isolated hamlets of Prisăcina and Dobraia. We felt an acute need for hydration, especially since it was a very hot day and many sections of the trail had no water sources. The springs at checkpoints 12 and 25 were excellent. Our gaze was fixed on the ridges of the Cernei, Semenic, and Mehedinți Mountains.

Route map

(click on objectives for extended version)

Technical box

Difficulty: difficult (especially the limestone area between Arjana and Zăscolul Arjanei) and, overall, a descent with a significant elevation difference
Duration / Distance: 8 hours / 21 km
Markings: red stripe / unmarked / red stripe / yellow stripe / red, yellow, and blue dots
Water sources: points 4 (shown on the map; I didn't look for it), 12, 15, and 25
Minimum altitude: 250 meters above sea level, upon arrival
Maximum elevation: 1,511 meters above sea level, at Arjana Peak, point 8 on the map
Elevation difference: approximately +500 m / -1,800 m

Notes: Don’t forget to bring enough water! If you follow the ridge between Zăscol Peak and Biliana Peak, you’ll have to descend unroped, without safety chains; that section is marked on the signpost at Zăscol Peak as difficult, but neither the Mapy map nor the MN map provide any indications regarding this technical section of the route!

1. Ciumerna Pass (1,481 m) – Prislop Pass – Arjana Peak (1,511 m) – Zăscol Peak (1,496 m) – Prislop Pass (1,270 m)

2.5–3 hours / 6.5 km / difficult / red trail, unmarked, red trail

We refilled our water supplies from the spring mentioned in the article about the previous day, near the Ciumerna Saddle. I passed beneath the peaks of Cușmița and Pleșu through a short forest tunnel to reach Prislop Pass, where the trail junction is clearly marked.

We followed the red-marked trail along the ridge, which, after so many days, finally enters the forest. We’ll be climbing Dosu Cerbului, but at least we’ll do it in the shade of the trees. What’s more, we were rewarded before leaving the forest: baskets full of large, ripe blackberries rounded out our breakfast. After a less steep section, another slope leads us to a small saddle between the Arjana and Zăscol peaks.

First, we’ll head to Arjana Peak, a symbol of the Cernei Mountains. There are no trail markers from the saddle to the summit. From the summit, the view stretches to the horizon toward the Semenic Mountains. We return to the rocky ridge, pass the saddle where we find the trail markers again, and continue along an even more exposed trail up to Zăscol Peak, an impressive limestone cliff. From Zăscol Peak, we look left and right along the ridge of the Cernei Mountains and ahead toward the Mehedinți Mountains beyond the deep Cernei Valley. From Zăscol Peak, we returned to Prislop Saddle following the red-striped trail.

Arjana's Spring (left) – Arjana (right) at sunrise

the signs in Șaua Ciumerna

We hike through the forest up Dosu Cerbului

a generous serving of ripe blackberries

Zascol Peak

Me on Arjana Peak

the main ridge of the Cernei Mountains at the summit of Arjana

Zascol Peak

Prislop Pass

2. Prislop Pass (1,270 m) – Prisăcina – Prisăcina Valley – junction (point 17) – Prisăcina junction (point 18)

3 hours / 8 km / moderate / yellow trail

From the Prislop Saddle, we follow the yellow stripe trail marker to the left, toward Motel Dumbrava. We stop at Spring 12 to refill our water bottles. At point 13, at the entrance to Prisăcina, we didn’t follow the map closely and assumed that the yellow stripe would take us down to Dumbrava. So we crossed through Prisăcina and continued toward Ineleț, when at junction 17 we opened the map and realized we were actually supposed to go the other way. We now had three options: via Ineleș, via Cheile Prisăcinei, or to turn back to the route we should have taken from the very beginning. We chose the last option, which brought us to point 18, formerly point 13.

the trail marker at Prislop Pass

a very good spring in the forest

among the farmers' properties

View from the hamlet of Prisăcina

among the isolated villages of the Cernei Mountains

3. RPrisăcina Junction (point 18) – Dobraia – Motel Dumbrava (DN67C) (250 m)

2.5 hours / 6.5 km / moderate / red, yellow, and blue markers

I headed toward the tricolor marker, walking in the sun, exhausted and dehydrated. It was hard, even though it was easy. Dobraia is the next place where you can take a wrong turn, at the intersection near the little church. From there, I entered the shade. I reached a blessed spring from which I drank several liters of water—I was that thirsty. The trail descends quite steeply through the forest to reach the Cernei Valley, leading to an abandoned mill. We crossed the river on a suspension bridge and reached the end of our wonderful adventure.

The Church in Dobraia

the triple marker that descends near Băile Herculane

the bridge over the Cerna River

view of the Mehedinți Mountains

Conclusion Day 7/7

1. It's really, really hot! I was thirsty again! There are a few water sources—use them!

2. Beautiful views of Cernei, Mehedinți, and Semenic.

3. If you don't want to skirt the ridge, keep in mind that on the section between Zăscol Peak and Biliana Peak, you'll be descending without safety chains!

All the best!

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