Peleaga Peak and Păpușa Peak, Retezat Mountains

1. Poiana Pelegii (1.633) - Bucurei Valley - Bucura Lake (2.040)

1.5 - 2 hours, red cross and blue stripe, easy

After a very comfortable night's rest in the Refuge in Poiana Pelegii, next to which you can also camp, we stocked up with water from the spring near the hut and made a 5 minute return trip to the car to optimize the backpack for the day. Here we go! We read the signs nearby: Lake Bucura 1.5 - 2 hours.

We go down a little to cross the Pelegii Valley on a bridge made of solid wooden poles, climb a little into the Pelegii Glade, and continue on its left. We start to climb slowly through the forest, occasionally admiring the troubled valley of Bucharest on our left.

When we come out of the forest, in the clear blue of the sky, on the left, the Slava Peak rises.
Slavei Peak. We also look back towards Albele - Piatra Iorgovanului.

We will cross a short section of jnepenis, a sign that we have gained altitude. The glaciated limestone relief will accompany us for several hours. Up to Lake Bucura, we will climb 2 glacial passes without much effort. On the way we were greeted by two black goats that you will see in the attached movie.

To the left below the Slava, in varying shades of blue, we refresh our gaze in Lia Lake. A little further up we meet another maiden name: Lake Ana. Lots of girls here, and beautiful too! Lia, Ana, Florica, Florica, Viorica and Bucura are the names of the glacial lakes from which the Bucurei Valley is formed. There are also two circuit trails around them.

We arrived at Lake Bucura, when many of those camped in tents were just waking up. Next to the lake is the Bucura Mountain Refuge. In front of us, above the Bucura Caldera, is the Bucura Curmatura, flanked on the left by the Bucura II and Bucura I peaks, and on the right by the Custura Bucura peak, the latter being the alternative option to approach the Peleaga Peak.

Lake Bucura It occupies an area of 10 hectares, is 550 m long, 225 m wide and has a perimeter of 1.4 km. The maximum depth reaches 15 meters and is fed by 5 springs. It is the most popular base for hiking in the Retezat Mountains, due to its location in the heart of the mountains, its flat location, exceptional landscapes and water sources at hand.

2. Bucura Lake (2.040) - Caldarea Berbecilor - Peleaga Peak (2.509)

1,5 - 2 hours, yellow cross, difficult

We start from Lake Bucura. As soon as we pass the mountain rescue hut, right on our route, there is a spring with a very good flow, the last one until we leave the alpine area. We supply water.

The option I describe here is not practicable in winter! We climb quickly in Caldarea Berbecilor. The landscape becomes more and more stony, typical of the Retezat. Red rhododendron bushes appear. Lake Bucura is visible lower and lower behind us. We climb steeper and steeper under the eyes of Pelegii in a chase. Our effort is rewarded by the appearance on the horizon "behind" of several lakes with girls' names. Just when we thought the hard work was over, we realize that although the summit is getting closer, we still have an uninterrupted climb up large slabs of rock to the top. You can see the summit! Up there! A little more, through the blocks of granite slabs to the summit.

Almost there! In the valley Bucura and Ana, we can guess Florica and Viorica, in the background the Sureanu and Tarcu Mountains. So wonderful! In the foreground Custura Bucurei, then Vârful Bucura and slightly to the right of Vârful Retezat, which from here is not so retezat.

3. Peleaga Peak (2,509)

We are on Pelega Peakthe elev. 2 509, the highest peak in the Retezat Mountains and the first 2500-meter ticked this year! Well worth it! A 360 degree panoramic tour from Peleaga Peak is inserted in the video attached to the artcol. We admire to the north the Valea Rea and Culmea Pietrele flanked by Culmea Valea Rea on the right and Culmea Stânișoara on the left, to the northeast the Retezat Peak from which the Lolaia Peak is formed to the north, to the west from near to far the Custura Bucurei Peaks, Bucura I and Bucura II separated by saddles, to the south Căldarea Pelegii, Peleaga and Peleguța Lakes and Pelegii Valley, to the south-west the closer Păpușa Mica and Custura Peaks further away, and to the east the Pelegii Saddle and the Păpușa Peak where we will continue our route. Again, on our way! Goodbye, Peleaga Peak!

4. Peleaga Peak (2.509) - Pelegii Saddle (2.285) - Păpușa Peak (2.508)

1 - 1.5 hours, yellow cross, difficult

Papusa Peak is two steps away, waiting for us! Impeccable weather so far. We have to keep the same yellow cross, which first follows a short aerial ridge, then embarks on the descent to Saua Pelegii (2.285 mdm). We admire the landscapes all the way into the Tara Hategului. We descend quite steeply, but quickly down to Saua Pelegii, with the granite boulder mountain of Papusii constantly in front of us. To the right we are shown in the valley Taul Ghimpele or Peleaga Lake. In Saua Pelegii there is a crossroads, we see the yellow cross, before and obviously on the ascent.

On the left we can admire the Caldarea Vaii Rele full of small lakes, on the right in the valley is the road we will return, the Pelegii Valley. Come on, let's climb the Doll! The steep and rocky path demands our attention and our ankles. We look back and wow...! Pelegii Fangs! ....The last climb, the clouds are gathering ...

Slightly to the left of the summit, we discover the Closed Gates, an exposed sector linking Doll's Peak and the Big Peak, which is not on our day's program.

5. Doll's Peak (2,508)

Here we are. We've conquered and Doll's Peak. We are at altitude 2.508. Păpușa Peak is one of Romania's 2500 peaks and the second highest peak in the Retezat Mountains. The marker on the summit is linked to ... a doll. At the summit there is a nice view to the northeast towards Vârful Mare where you can reach the summit on an exposed path that crosses the area called Porțile Închise, to the east is the glacial caldera where you can find the Lac Adânc, to the southeast is the mountain ridge of Păpușa Mica, to the south is the Pelegii Valley where we will retreat, to the west there are Șaua Pelegii, Colții Pelegii and Vârful Peleaga from where we came, to the north-west a little further away is Vârful Retezat, and to the north there are 4 parallel peaks Lolaia which starts from Vărful Retezat and approaching us Stânișoara, Pietrele and Valea Rea, just below us are the Tăurile of Valea Rea. Fog is setting in.

6. Doll's Peak (2.508) - Pelegii Saddle (2.285)

30 minutes, yellow cross, medium

There's no face to stand on Doll's Peak for the fog envelops us. Up to Saua Pelegii we follow the same road of large granite slabs. Now and then the mist clears, but the first drops of rain appear. Let's go, as we're in the open, on the ridge, let's get down as soon as possible. We'll reach the sa. Peleaga and the Pelegii Passes enter the fog. We got through there just in time!

7. Pelegii Saddle (2.285) - Lake Thimble Lake (2.122) - Pelegii Valley - Poiana Pelegii (1.633)

2 hours, blue dot marker, easy

In Pelegii Saddle we change direction 90 degrees to the left and mark the blue dot. We descend quickly, because it's raining. We enjoy the perspective given by Taul Ghimpele, in front of us and the Little Doll's Peak - Custura on the left. I'll be a bit more sparse with the pictures for weather reasons. Without any real risk of getting lost, a little more attention is needed to the markings on the rarer spots.

On the shore Lake Ghimpele or Peleaga we are at 2,122 meters altitude. From now on we descend in a straight line with the Pelegii Valley always on the left. We cross a small jnepenis and a small forest shortly before reaching the Poiana Pelegii. We cross the Peleaga River and reach the car.

End of Retezat story for today!