The Retezat–Godeanu–Cernei Ridge – Day 5/7 – The Godeanu Mountains

1. Lake Scărișoara (1,980 m) – Godeanu Peak (2,229 m)

3–3.5 hours / 8 km / moderate / red trail (and a few unmarked shortcuts)

We fill our water bottles with cold water from the springs near Lake Scărișoara (points 2 and 3) and set off along the hillside, off the marked trail, on sheep trails toward the ridge trail. We can make out the ridge trail by the metal posts visible in the distance. The landscape is alpine, the air is crisp, and we can see mountains all around us, from Retezat to Mehedinți and Cernei. We pass north of Piatra Scărișoarei, then through Șaua Mițului, where the trail joins the secondary ridge leading to Vârful Gugu (2,291 m above sea level, the highest peak in the massif) via Vârful Moraru. We continue along the red trail and enjoy the close-up view of the glacial cirques on the right—Cârnea, Bonțica, and Gropița. In the distance, Lake Gropița glistens. We’re already climbing the slope toward Godeanu Peak, which we approach indirectly, following a U-shaped route.

2. Godeanu Peak (2,229 m above sea level)

Godeanu Peak in the Godeanu Mountains is not the highest peak in this range, just as Retezat Peak in the Retezat Mountains is not either. Godeanu Peak has an elevation of 2,229 m. However, the highest peak in the range is Gugu Peak at 2,291 m.

Below Godeanu Peak, to the east, down in the glacial cirque, lies Godeanu Lake. To the E-NE is the ridge we came up on, which continues past Paltina Saddle into the Retezatul Mic Mountains toward Piatra Iorgovanului. To the north lies the Moraru–Scărița–Gugu ridge, and to its left, the valley of the Șes River, which flows into the reservoir at Gura Apelor. To the E-SE, the Oslea ridge is in the foreground, and in the distance lies Piatra Cloșanilor. We turn our gaze further south, then to the southwest, where our ridge trail continues into the Cernei Mountains; to the left of this ridge lie the Mehedinți Mountains, separated from the Cernei Mountains by the Cernei Valley. We’ve caught some good weather at the summit!

At the summit, we took in the panoramic view; below the summit, in the shelter, we stopped for lunch.

3. Godeanu Peak (2,229 m) – Spring near Curmătura Olanelor (1,900 m)

2.5 hours / 7 km / moderate / red trail

After Godeanu Peak, we descend along the ridge with the Șes River valley on our right—another recommended spot for camping and getting water— the closest point on the ridge being point 14 on the map, from where you can descend either to the left or to the right to reach a spring. Shortly thereafter (that is, after one more climb), we cross the Olan Ridge, and shortly after this pass, we reach a good spring near the forest road frequently used by blueberry pickers. This is where we’ll camp. It will be the campsite I enjoyed the most during the entire expedition. It might have been even nicer the night before, at Lake Scărișoara, if the gusts of wind hadn’t quickly driven us into our tents.